Ghillie Guide: Everything You Need to Know About Highland Dance Shoes

Ghillie Guide: Everything You Need to Know about Highland Dance Shoes

Highland dance ghillies (also commonly referred to as pumps, slippers, or dance shoes) are essential for highland dancers… and also notoriously difficult to navigate for new dance parents. In part one of this guide, we’ll be covering: 

  • What are highland dance ghillies?
  • Where can you buy ghillies?
  • What are the shoe brands? What are the differences, and which is the “best”?
  • What are the different styles of ghillies?
  • What size ghillies should you buy?

For some of these topics, we also have video guides. Find them linked throughout! 

A dancer poses wearing black

Are highland ghillies different from Irish dance ghillies?

This is a question we encounter all the time:

My cousin used to do Irish dance and gave me these hand-me-down shoes, can I use them for highland dance?

Yes, Irish dancers also use shoes called ghillies which look extremely similar to those used by Scottish highland dancers.

BUT there are key differences in the shape, thickness, and design in the two variants. 

If you really want to use your hand-me-down Irish ghillies for highland, keep it to practice time. They are not acceptable in competition. 

Two dancers wearing black jump in unison

What are highland dance ghillies?

Ghillies (also known as pumps, slippers, or dance shoes) are used by highland dancers in all but one of our traditional dances. Ghillies are made of black leather, fit snugly around the shape of the foot, and are laced and tied around the foot. 

Their tight fit showcases a dancer’s points, and provides support (or pain, depending who you ask) when a dancer uses their half point. 

Saorsa Studio Highland Dance Fredericton New Brunswick

Where can you buy highland dance shoes?

Highland dance shoes can be purchased directly from the brands (more on this in the next section), or from dance suppliers. Availability often depends on your timing and location, so keep an eye out. 

  • Our preferred supplier: For Reel Apparel (Attention Saorsa Studio dancers! We keep a stock of shoes at the studio. Reach out to schedule a free fitting)
  • Supplier (Nova Scotia based): The Purple Ghillie
  • Supplier: Tartan Town 
  • USED shoes: Lightly used shoes are sometimes sold on Facebook groups. Search “Highland dance costume buy and sell [your area]”, join a group, and keep an eye out for postings! Also, dance teachers/studios sometimes keep a supply of used shoes available for purchase or lending. Reach out to your teacher if you’re unsure! 

For specific brand supplies, see next section.

Saorsa Studio Highland Dance Fredericton New Brunswick

What are the different brands of ghillies available?

Just like basketball sneakers or hockey skates, there are different brands manufacturing highland dance ghillies. Once you begin to notice the finer details! Some ghillies have more eyelets than others, some have different colour stitching… it’s all in the details.

What are the differences between the brands?

Different brands may specialise in a certain shape of shoe, manufacturing process, materials, number of eyelets, or colours. For example, Thistle shoes are known for using very thin leather compared to other shoes, so they stretch more than other brands. 

Often, after years of trial and error with different shoes, a dancer will develop their own personal preference for a ghillie brand.

Brands of highland dance ghillies

Here’s a non-exhaustive list of brands making highland dance ghillies: 

  • Billy Forsyth
  • Dancewear
  • Gandolfi
  • Highlander
  • Hullachan
  • James Senior
  • Thistle
  • Toe and Heel Gold

What is the best brand of ghillies?

Well, like we said: each dancer has their own personal preference. They might like the thinness of the leather on Thistles, or prefer the higher structure in Billy Forsyths. Or they might just like the shiny gold eyelets on Toe and Heel Golds. Everyone has their own favourite!

That being said, at Saorsa Studio, we’re big fans of Thistles. (Not sponsored, but hit us up for a collab Thistle!)

A dancer wearing a red kilt and socks ties their shoe

Are there different styles of ghillies?

Yes! Each brand has their own special shape and process, but there are a few different recognised “styles” available across different brands:

  • Closed toe refers to a shoe which has an additional leather eyelet up by the toes in the centre of the shoe.
  • Open toe refers to a shoe which does not have that extra eyelet.
  • Split sole refers to a shoe which does not have a full sole on the bottom of the shoe. Rather, it only goes from the toes to the arch of the foot, leaving the heel with only leather.
A dancer ties a black dance shoe
The ghillie in this image is Open Toe. You can see how rather than being fed through an eyelet in the centre up by the toes, the lace goes straight across the foot through the top two eyelets.

What size ghillies should I be buying?

Highland dancers typically wear their ghillies quite tight. Generally speaking, the tighter the ghillie, the more it will mold to your foot and show off your points. 

For example, this author wears a size 6 street shoe. I purchase the smallest size shoe that I can shove my foot into (size 1.5), and then stretch them. 

For younger dancers, we don’t recommend this strategy. It’s tough on growing feet, and it will get expensive when they outgrow their shoes every 6 months. Instead, purchase shoes that fit “perfectly” (aren’t loose and baggy, but don’t squeeze the feet). They’ll stretch out a bit, so the dancer will be able to wear them longer.

In all cases, try on several sizes before you commit, and be sure to stand up and demonstrate a pointed foot to see how your foot looks in the shoe. Different sizes and brands will accentuate different feet!

Watch: How to choose what size ghillies to buy

More from Saorsa Studio Fredericton

Your guides to the world of highland dance

Stay tuned for part 2, where we’ll be covering how to lace, tie, and break in highland dance ghillies!

Looking for more about the world of recreational and competitive highland dance? Check out our other parent guides! 

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